Beautiful vintage costume jewelry that was made in the old West Germany comes in a stunning variety of styles and designs. You can recognize this type of jewelry, as it is stamped “West Germany” on the back of the jewelry piece. Items were usually made from glass beads, plastic beads or glass stones, which were set into base metals. The following photos show some different types of signed ‘West Germany’ jewelry – I love how varied and beautiful it was ..
The back of a necklace clasp, which has been signed “W. Germany”. Sometimes jewelry pieces were signed Western Germany, or West Germany (pieces signed simply “Germany” were made prior to 1949, which I’ll talk about a little more, further down this article).
One of the most beautiful vintage costume jewelry brooches I’ve owned is this circa 1960s old West Germany brooch, complete with stunning center amber-glass opalite glass stone. Vintage jewelry collectors may notice that West Germany brooches such as this one, are similar to ones from Czechoslovakia made in the 1930s to 1950s – according to one vintage jewelry collector I came across many years ago, this was due to an influx of Czechoslovakian jewelry designers coming to work in West Germany at the time.
Vintage pastel blue Lucite plastic bead collar necklace signed West Germany, circa 1960s. West Germany jewelry was famous for it’s high quality finish and gorgeous statement designs.
This vintage signed West Germany necklace is made from Eloxal metal, a type of robust and tarnish resistant aluminium, and is very lightweight to hold.
Vintage costume jewelry necklace, signed ‘West Germany’ on the clasp, and created with brown round glass beads
Vintage West Germany signed costume jewelry necklace, created in Eloxal metal and with faux mother of pearl shell plastic panel detail
These vintage pink confetti Lucite flower earrings are stamped simply ‘Germany’,which can help us to date them to pre-1949; after this date Germany was split into two countries, East Germany and West Germany, until 1990. Although jewelry was made in East Germany it’s now rare to find, and is sometimes signed ‘German Democratic Republic’ or similar.
Vintage 3 row pink red plastic bead strand bib necklace, signed West Germany on the clasp.
Vintage gold tone filigree statement long tassel beaded necklace, detailed with faux coral (made from painted red wood). It’s always worth carefully looking over any vintage costume jewelry you come across to see if it has a West Germany stamp on it, usually on or near the clasp. Unlike some other types of vintage costume jewelry (such as Delft or old Czechoslovakian) there is no particular distinct style or tell-tale features to give it away as from West Germany, so finding a signature can be of great help.
Close up detail of the above faux coral necklace showing the beaded detail and intricate filigree metal work.
Vintage signed West Germany blue and opaque white glass bead clip on earrings (stamped ‘West Germany’ on the backs of the ear clips)
Beautiful signed West Germany costume jewelry necklace, detailed with faceted amber color glass stones set into lightweight Eloxal metal.
Another hallmark of West Germany jewelry is the use of glass cameos and intaglios (reverse carved cameos) in the designs, like on these vintage circa 1960s glass cameo & enamel deco revival earrings.
If you are interested in buying vintage jewelry made in West Germany, online auction sites and online vintage marketplaces are a great place to start; I’ve seen prices generally ranging from around £2 to £10 ($3 to $14) per item, though the odd piece of jewelry will sell for up to £50 (approx $70 USD) on occasion. I’ve also picked up some beautiful West Germany jewelry in thrift shops and flea markets for less than £5 (about $7 USD), so it’s definitely worth shopping around (all prices are my personal experience and are not to be taken as any type of valuation).
Whilst the quality and finish of West Germany costume jewelry is of a high standard, there are some things to watch out for before you make a purchase. Check necklaces for stringing quality, as the original old string may have become stretched/ worn and would now benefit from a more secure re-string. Look carefully at metal work – if you see any green patches or rust, this is a sign the metal is damaged, and in my experience this damage will only spread and get worse. Check all clasp mechanisms open and close properly by testing them a few times – I once bought a vintage necklace and the old clasp spring broke on my first wear! Finally, bare in mind that West Germany jewelry was sometimes made from Eloxal metal, which is an extremely lightweight type of aluminium metal; don’t worry if your jewelry feels too light or has no weight to it – if it’s signed West Germany the chances are it’s made from Eloxal.
Here are some tips for buying your perfect engagement ring, especially if you are after a colored gemstone alternative to traditional diamonds.
Spectacular citrine and black spinel gemstone contemporary engagement ring
1.Make sure the gemstone is hard and durable.
Colored gemstones are a beautiful and eye-catching alternative to traditional diamond engagement rings, but did you know that some gems are quite soft and unsuitable for the day-to-day wear an engagement ring will go through?
All gemstones are graded in hardness called the MOHS hardness scale. ‘1’ on the MOHS scale is very soft (like talc), and the highest number is ’10’, being extremely hard (diamonds are a 10). For an engagement ring, it’s best to go for a gemstone that is ‘7’ or above on the MOHS scale; your engagement ring is going to be worn daily in all types of situations, and needs to be robust. Softer gems, such as opal, amber or labradorite, may get scratched if they come into contact with everyday items such as hard metals or glass over time (gemstones under ‘7’ are great for more occasional wear, just not for the life an engagement ring will go through).
Gemstones over ‘7’ on the MOHS scale, include: topaz, emerald, aquamarine, morganite, diamond, ruby, spinel, chrysoberyl, sapphire, and tourmaline.
Gemstones under ‘7’ on the MOHS scale tend to be soft and more easily scratched; labradorite, fluorite, opal, amber, moonstone, lapis lazuli, malachite and turquoise fall into this category.
Many gemstones are borderline 6.5 to 7, such as tanzanite, peridot, kunzite, some types of garnet, jasper and agates; I personally wouldn’t use them in an engagement ring just to be on the safe side.
Gemstones such ruby are a popular choice for engagement rings, due to their rarity, beauty and durability. Rubies are ‘9’ on the MOHS hardness scale, meaning they won’t be scratched by general wear and tear they may come across – only diamonds are harder.However, this beautiful Baltic amber and fire opal ring is too soft for the daily wear and tear an engagement ring will go through, and would soon be damaged. Amber is only around ‘2.5’ on the MOHS hardness scale, meaning it can be scratched very easily.
2. Make sure the metal is suitable for the gemstone.
Metals are also graded on the MOHS scale. The softer the metal, the more likely it is to get scratched, dented or even move position over time, potentially causing your precious gemstone to fall out!
The most important part of your engagement ring (after the gemstone) is the claw setting – the prong-sticking-out-bits that hold your gemstone in place. These prongs should be quite hard and durable, but not hard enough to scratch your gem. So whilst 22k gold is far too soft to hold a gemstone in place securely for long term daily wear, the metal platinum (which is harder than 22k gold) is a good choice; it’s quite common to put platinum prong-tips on gold rings. My own favorite type of metal for stone setting is 14k gold throughout the ring; I think this type of gold color is rich and beautiful, and a durable safe hardness for secure prongs.
Close up detail of prongs holding a pale green gemstone called prasiolite in place. Prongs are also known as claws or ‘claw set’, and they need to be strong and durable so they won’t move open over time – we don’t want your valuable gemstone falling out!A stunning alternative to prong rings is to secure your gemstone in what is called a bezel setting, as seen in this contemporary sapphire engagement ring. Bezel set gemstones are secured in a full solid strip of metal all the way around the stone, so they’ll never fall out. This setting also won’t ‘catch’ on things (such as fabrics and hair), like prongs sometimes do.
White gold rings look beautiful, though it’s important to note that they’ll need re-plating by a jeweler once in a while (most white gold actually has a thin layer of rhodium plating to give the distinctive ‘white’ shine – raw un-plated white gold has a slight dull yellow tinge to it).
I personally love specialist colored gold, such as blue gold, peach gold, purple gold and rose gold, but I’ve noticed that they have a habit of going in and out of fashion for some reason, so do bare that in mind, especially if you’d like your ring to always have a timeless feel to it.
There’s a growing trend for using unusual metals such as titanium or palladium to create engagement rings. While they look amazing, some of these metals cannot be resized, so if your finger changes shape over the years, it’s going to be a problem. Ask your jeweler for for further advice.
Don’t be afraid to experiment with different cuts of gemstone – they don’t always need to be faceted! Some of the most beautiful stones I’ve encountered have been what is called cabochon cut – smooth with no facets – as seen in this stunning cabochon cut ruby ring.
3. Choose the gemstone shape that will suit your fingers
Look at the finger shape the ring will go on. Is your finger long and slim? Or short and wide? The gemstone shape will have an big impact on how your finger will look once your ring is worn. Please note, that most of all, do choose a ring because you love it.
For short / wide fingers: square or rectangular cuts can sometimes over-emphasize the shortness or width of your finger. Instead, oval cut, pear cut or trilliant cut shapes can have a elongating effect to the finger. Also, short or wide fingers can sometimes overwhelm a tiny understated solitaire, but they do suit more statement type rings (such as big stones and cluster rings).
For long / slim fingers: narrow oval cut shapes can sometimes over emphasize the length. Anything square cut or rectangular cut will look good. Long/ slim fingers also suit tiny solitaires, but big stones and statement rings can sometimes overwhelm the finger.
All fingers usually suit bands, eternity style rings and trilogy style rings.
In my opinion gemstones that have been ‘marquise cut’ are probably best avoided for engagement rings, as they can be more prone to chipping at the pointed tip ends.
Oval cut rings look great on short fingers.This gorgeous vintage style engagement ring is made from a securely bezel set oval cut smoky quartz, surrounded by tiny sparkling marcasite gemstones.This contemporary square cut gemstone ring would look great on long fingers.Don’t underestimate how much wear, tear, knocks and bangs your engagement ring with get! Whilst this marquise cut green chrome diopside gemstone and white topaz cluster ring is perfect for occasional wear, I personally wouldn’t have any type of marquise cut stone in my engagement ring, as the tips at each end of marquise cut stones can be prone to chipping.
4. Make sure gemstone treatments are disclosed
Many gemstones on the market have been treated in some way, and this is a normal part of the gemstone industry (eg, a lot of aquamarine is heat-treated to remove a green tinge, topaz is usually irradiated to turn it blue, rubies are notorious for heavy treatments such as glass/fissure filling, and most emeralds have been ‘oiled’). Ask your jeweler to disclose such treatments; this is important and could affect the value of your stone. Good jewelers should also advise on what potential upkeep the stones may need eg, will the emerald need re-oiling at some stage? Is it safe to clean the gemstone in an ultrasonic cleaner? Gemstones need care instructions (even diamonds can potentially be damaged) so your jeweler should be happy to guide you on this.
Topaz is a beautiful choice for engagement rings; it’s durable, comes in a variety of colors, tends to be eye-clean with few inclusions, and you can get large carat sizes for a much lower price than many other gemstones types. The vast majority of blue topaz has been treated in some way to produce its beautiful blue color – this is normal and expected for this stone (untreated blue topaz is quite rare, and commands much higher prices).
Ideally any expensive fine gemstone jewelry that you purchase should come with a certificate of authenticity which explains the location where the stone came from, its carat weight, and what treatment it has received; expensive diamonds should have been tested and graded by a professional institution such as the GIA, including full diamond certificates for your records. Keep all papers and receipts that come with your ring, to help with insurance or unknown events in the future.
Make sure you get a certificate of authenticity (often called a COA) from your jeweler and keep all receipts and cards related to your ring, as they might be needed in the future (eg, insurance purposes, unforeseen circumstances, provenance etc)
5. Break with traditions
There’s a world of incredible gemstones out there that are unheard of outside jewelry and gemology circles. Don’t be afraid to experiment with more unusual types, as they can be every bit as eye-catching, durable and beautiful as the more well known traditional gems – often more so, in my opinion.
For example, tourmaline gemstone comes in every color you can think of (my personal favorite are mint green tourmaline’s). One of the most beautiful yellow gemstones I’ve ever seen was an oval cut chrysoberyl, or if you fancy something really different, alexandrite naturally changes color depending on the type of light it’s viewed in; it looks green in daylight and red-brown under candlelight. If you want your gemstone to display vivid color, spinel’s have some of the richest most incredible blues, reds and pinks you can come across in the gemstone world (the ‘Black Prince’s Ruby’ on the famous British Imperial State Crown is actually a red spinel).
Tourmaline is a durable gemstone that comes in a vast array of colors, tones and hues, from intense rich aqua paraiba blues, to the elegant pastel shades seen in this multicolored tourmaline ring.Chrysoberyl gemstone is not generally known outside of jewelry connoisseur circles, yet its yellow color is exquisite. Being ‘8’ on the MOHS scale, it’s also very hard and durable – perfect for engagement rings.More people are looking into diamond alternatives. The large eye-catching clear quartz at the center of this ring (surrounded by little clear topaz) has an unusual glowing ‘iceberg’ crackle effect within the stone – perfect for anyone who wants something a little more unique.Goshenite is a beautiful but relatively unknown clear colorless gemstone. It’s a great choice as a diamond alternative due to its hardness, durability, clarity and lack of inclusions. It’s a fraction of the price of diamonds too!Whilst too soft for use as a gemstone in an engagement ring, I couldn’t resist showing you one of my favorite clear gems! The beautifully named petalite gemstone is one of the prettiest clear gemstones around; rather than having the fire of a diamond, it displays an ethereal glowing water-like effect – if a clear mountain stream could be encapsulated into a gemstone, it would be a petalite.Magnificent blue spinel gemstone engagement ring.Heliodor is a type of yellow beryl (emeralds and aquamarines are also varieties of beryl) and comes in a range of yellow colours.Can’t decide on your favorite gemstone? Why not experiment with a combination, as seen in in this stunning ring. The center stone is an orange sapphire, and either side are andalusite, an unusual gemstone which flashes various shades of autumnal fall colors.Another beautiful example of a ring with combined gemstones, this time a center aquamarine gem, with purple iolite gemstones either side.Sapphires are a great choice for engagement rings as they are so hard and durable. They don’t just come in traditional blue either, so why not experiment with the many colors this beautiful gem comes in, as seen in this fabulous multi-color sapphire ring.
And finally .. a note on jewelers. Good jewelers will be happy that you are taking an interest in your gemstone, and will welcome any questions you have; in fact, a good jeweler will be passionate about gemstones, and will want to share this passion with you! If your jeweler gets annoyed or offended at you for asking about gemstone treatments, certificates and care – leave immediately. This is your money not theirs. Never be pressurized, nor be made to feel a nuisance – you want the shopping experience for your special ring to be a positive and happy one, and your jeweler should be a delightful part of this journey.
These are simply my opinions and experiences, and I hope it help you in some way. Do ask for advice from many different people, shop around, read lots of articles and tips, to help you choose the ring of your dreams. I also just want to emphasis that this article is about engagement rings, not rings in general; I have plenty of very beautiful soft gemstones that are set in rings which I treasure, but I would never use them as an engagement ring, as they wouldn’t last long!
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