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Vintage marcasite jewellery

If you want sparkle, but prefer an understated look, then marcasite gemstone jewellery may be perfect for you.  These semi-precious stones are a type of mineral, which range in colour from silver-yellow to bright white silver. When faceted and set into jewellery, they create a subtle sparkling effect, rather than a full on glitz Рperfect for adding a hint of shimmer.

Close up of loose marcasite gemstones

Above, a varied selection of vintage marcasites, harvested from old broken jewellery. Notice how some are flat-backed (near the back), and some are the traditional ‘diamond’ shape, depending on the setting of the jewellery they came from. Marcasites generally vary in size from approx 0.5mm to 1.5mm. They are seriously tiny!

marcasite gemstones size close up next to finger

Marcasites next to my pinky finger!

vintage marcasite pave sterling silver ring jewelry

Marcasites can be set into all types of jewellery, and were a popular gemstone to be used in art deco rings.

vintage marcasite swirl silver tone bridal wedding necklace jewellery

Marcasite necklaces have been worn since the 19th Century, and are still hugely popular today. This vintage beauty dates from around the 1960s.

vintage marcasite swirl silver necklace jewelry

The above marcasite necklace when worn

vintage marcasite bow silver brooch jewellery

Marcasites can sometimes develope a yellow/ brown colour over time, as seen in this adorable vintage circa 1970s bow brooch – this is simply age and nothing to worry about ūüôā

vintage silver marcasite carved shell cameo brooch jewellery

Had normal glitzy glass paste rhinestones been used to frame this lovely carved shell cameo, they would have detracted from its beauty. Marcasites however, are perfect for giving a crisp finish without over awing the jewellery itself.

vintage cold painted enamel marcasite flower basket brooch jewellery

Flower basket brooches were hugely popular in the 1950s – some were plain or set with rhinestones, while others were encrusted with diamonds and coloured gemstones (depending on your budget!). Marcasites are the happy medium between costume jewellery and fine jewellery, and suit most budgets.

vintage 1950s cold painted enamel marcasite flower silver brooch jewelry

This outstanding marcasite flower brooch has been ‘cold painted’ with enamel (ie, using a paintbrush and enamel paint, rather than more complex true vitreous enamel work which involves firing powdered glass in an oven). Cold painted marcasite enamel jewellery was popular during the 1950s to 1970s, and on a personal note, is one of my all time favourite types of vintage jewellery – it transcends ‘accessory’ and becomes ‘art’.

vintage 60s marcasite collar necklace leaf wedding bridal jewellery

Vintage circa 1960s marcasite and silver tone leaf necklace

vintage marcasite clip on earrings swallow bird silver jewelry

These marcasite bird clip on earrings look like they could have been made recently – but they actually date from the 1950s. Cuteness never goes out of style ūüôā

vintage 1970s cultured freshwater pearl marcasite swirl circle brooch jewelry

While a couple of stones missing from vintage marcasite jewellery is quite normal, any more and I consider it damaged and in need of repair (with prices to reflect this.

repairing marcasite stone jewellery

Repairing marcasite jewellery yourself is tricky, but can be done with a steady hand and the right tools. Firstly, you need a good stock of marcasites harvested from other broken jewellery (or buy some online). Match up the sizes to the rest of the marcasites in the jewellery you wish to repair. Next, get yourself some proper ‘jewellery cement’ such as “GS Hypo Cement” – it’s a strong clear specialist jewelry glue that has a super fine nozzle – perfect for tricky work (never use superglue – it dissolves marcasites, as I found to my horror many years ago at my first attempt at marcasite fixing!). Put a tiny dab of cement in the hole you which to place the stone in, and then pick up the marcasite by pressing your finger on it – the natural moisture on your finger will temporarily hold it on. Finally, place it in the hole, and adjust with a pin if needed. This is tricky work, and it may take a few attempts before you get it right.

vintage 1960s marcasite gold tone maltese cross teardrop pendant necklace jewelry

An unusual vintage circa 1960s Maltese cross pendant – gold tone, but set with silver colour marcasites

vintage 60s faux marcasite horse pony eloxal brooch silver jewellery

Spotting faux marcasite jewellery can be hard work, especially because modern real marcasite jewellery can look very similar to vintage faux marcasite jewellery! A good giveaway is the weight – vintage faux-marcasite jewellery, as seen in this cute pony brooch, was made from a metal called Eloxal (a type of aluminium) which was very light in weight – almost weightless! (Vintage Eloxal jewellery was usually made in West Germany and occasionally East Asia, and was popular during the 1960 and 70s because it never tarnished or discoloured). Grab a magnifying glass and have a good look at the stones – if they appear too ‘perfect’ and flush set, it could be faux marcasites (real marcasites are a pain to set straight, and are often even purposely set slightly crooked to give better sparkle and depth to the whole piece of jewelry).

vintage 1960s faux marcasite eloxal panel bracelet chunky jewellery silver celtic knot pattern

A beautiful Celtic inspired vintage circa 1970s faux marcasite panel Eloxal metal bracelet. Two give-aways in identifying the jewellery was its weight (almost weightless when held – a signature of vintage Eloxal metal), and the uniform shape and settings of the ‘stones’. Vintage Eloxal jewellery is a collectable in its own right, and I absolutely love this bracelet!

Cute lampwork glass animal charm pendants and earrings ..

I love sparkles and crystals and all things glamorous, but often I just want to wear cute things too. In my shop, there’s a growing range of adorable animal, insect and bird costume jewellery and I’ve got a real soft spot for it! ūüôā

pig pendant lampwork glass bead cute necklace animal farm charm silver tone jewelry

pink pig lampwork glass earrings unique cute charm silver tone jewellery

ABOVE: Some of my all time best sellers – pig earrings and pig pendant necklace. These beauties are made from glass, and unfortunately they no longer seem to be made! I’ve not got many left in stock, and am desperately trying to find if another supplier has them. Buy here.

 

lampwork bead penguin bird pendant charm silver tone necklace unique cute jewellery

Adorable black and white penguin, complete with an orange glass bobble hat I made for it! (the ‘bobble’ is a sparkling Austrian crystal). Buy here.

 

bumblebee Austrian crystal pendant enamel charm necklace unique cute jewellery

There’s been a real buzzz (sorry!) about these bumblebee earrings and pendant silver tone necklace, made from black and white enamel topped with sparkling Austrian crystals. Buy here.

enamel bee glass bumblebee crystal yellow charm earrings unique cute silver tone jewellery

pug dog Austrian glass crystal yellow and brown bead pendant necklace unique cute silver tone jewellery

Adorable pug charm pendant necklace, complete with brown and beige Austrian crystal details. Buy here.

 

dolphin crystal blue pendant necklace sea nautical unique cute silver tone jewellery

Jumping dolphin silver tone charm pendant necklace, with tiny sparkling sea blue crystal glass detail. Buy here.

 

dove bird crystal pendant necklace unique cute silver tone charm jewellery

Super cute flying bird silver tone charm necklace, with tiny sparkling sky blue Austrian glass crystal. Buy here.

 

uranium glass crystal frog pendant necklace unique cute silver tone charm jewellery

This adorable little green crystal glass frog pendant has a little secret ….

 

uranium glass crystal frog pendant necklace unique cute silver tone charm jewellery

It’s belly is made glows under Ultra Violet light! (for ages I had a bag of vintage 1950s uranium glass beads that I didn’t know what to do with, and when I found this frog charm, I knew they had to go together!). Buy here.

 

ladybird insect glass lampwork earrings crystal unique cute antique bronze charm handmade jewellery

Gorgeous red ladybird glass charm earrings, complete with with green glass crystal detail. Buy here.

 

ladybird insect glass lampwork leaf earrings crystal bracelet cute antique bronze charm handmade jewellery

I love these glass ladybirds so much I can’t stop making jewellery out of them! The leaves are also glass, and the clasp is strong magnetic (with safety chain). Buy here.

 

ladybird insect glass lampwork pendant necklace crystal unique cute antique bronze charm handmade jewellery

You can never have enough cute jewellery ūüôā

 

UPDATE: I also now have in stock pandas, mice, sheep and chickens!

Favourite coloured enamel Siam silver jewellery

Adding an earlier post on vintage Siam Silver jewellery from Thailand, here are my favourite coloured enamel pieces that I’ve been lucky enough to own ..

Vintage orange, blue, green, black and turquoise enamel Siam silver bracelet jewelry

Vintage multi-coloured orange, blue, green, black and turquoise enamel Siam silver bracelet. While black niellowork seems to be the most sought after type of Siam silver, there is a growing niche market for more colourful pieces too, which (judging by the clasp settings and signatures on the jewellery) are generally from a later period.

Vintage red enamel Siam Silver fan and heart brooch jewelry

Vintage red enamel Siam Silver fan and heart brooch

Vintage turquoise blue Siam silver large leaf brooch jewelry

Vintage turquoise blue enamel Siam silver large leaf brooch. While the more common black niellowork enamel is smooth and flat, by contrast a lot of the colourful enamel has a textured background, to give more depth to the piece.

Vintage turquoise blue Siam silver enamel panel bracelet jewelry

Vintage turquoise blue Siam silver enamel panel bracelet. Again, note the hand carved textured background.

Vintage turquoise blue Siam silver enamel flower brooch jewellery

Vintage turquoise blue Siam silver enamel flower brooch. Not long after this photo was taken the enamel work cracked and began to fall out, which is sadly something which Siam coloured enamel work occasionally suffers from (especially this tone of turquoise-blue for some reason!). If you plan on starting a collection, make sure you can see the enamel work clearly before buying – missing or damaged areas are not desirable, and can render your piece almost worthless.

Unusual red and royal blue vintage Siam silver enamel brooch jewerly

A rare two tone red and royal blue vintage Siam silver enamel brooch

Vintage white enamel Siam silver brooch jewelry, showing a beautifully detailed Mekkalah, Goddess of Lightening.

Vintage white enamel Siam silver brooch, showing a beautifully detailed depiction of the South Asian Goddess of Lightening, Mekkalah.

Vintage white enamel Siam silver brooch, showing Hanuman and Matcha from the Ramakien (Thai Ramayana)

Vintage white enamel Siam silver brooch, which depicts Hanuman and Matcha from the Ramakien (the Thailand version of the great Hindu epic the Ramayana)

Vintage white enamel ship Siam silver brooch jewellery

Vintage white enamel ship Siam silver brooch. White enamel is the most durable of the coloured enamels (in my opinion even more so than black niello work), and never seems to crack or even scratch.

Info guide to vintage Siam silver niello jewelry

Info about vintage Siam silver niello jewelry

info about vintage Siam silver niello jewelry

An introduction to Siam Silver jewellery – what exactly is it?

If you’ve ever come across big black enameled jewellery depicting dancing figures, then it might be a piece of Siam Silver jewellery. These stunning creations were hand made in Siam (now called Thailand), and the figures, buildings or animals created in the jewellery usually depict characters and scenes from Buddhist and Hindu tales and religious text. The country of Siam changed its name to Thailand in 1939, changing it back to Siam in 1945, and then was finally renamed Thailand in 1949. The above photo shows a typical “Mekkalah, Goddess of Lightening” Siam Silver vintage niello brooch. Jewellery is usually stamped ‘Made in Siam‘ on the back, though later pieces were could be stamped either ‘Siam’ and ‘Thailand’.

Most Siam jewellery you find is made from some grade of silver (often 925 sterling), with black ‘enamel ‘ style detail. The black and silver jewellery is called Siam Silver nielloware, after the black enamel style technique called niello used in its creation. Occasionally you may see fabulous coloured Siam Silver, with green, blue, red and white enameling instead of black niellowork.

 

info about vintage Siam silver niello jewelry

Most vintage Siam Silver is made from a mix of black niello and silver

 

guide about vintage Siam silver niello jewellery

Occasionally you’ll find coloured enamel Siam jewellery, like this rare yellow enamel Siam Silver bracelet.

It’s generally believed that Siam Silver jewellery became fashionable in the Western Hemisphere between the 1930s -1970s. A popular theory is that people working in Thailand sent home this beautiful jewellery as gifts for loved ones, and collections grew from there. This is probably a true story in regards to its general recent popularity, though it’s important to note that the country of Thailand has a rich history in metal work and enameling techniques; Siam Silver nielloware has been quietly collected in aristocratic and royal circles for centuries.

 

What do we mean by Niellowork?

This is a special type of black colouring technique dating back over 3000 years. No one knows for sure who invented it, though Egypt, Cyprus, Syria and Thailand all lay claim to its discovery. Types of niello technique have been used in other countries too, including Great Britain.

Niello is more like an amalgam/ metal alloy than a true enamel, usually being a mixture of silver, copper, lead and sulfur. The term ‘niello’ has Latin origins (developing from the words nigellus, Latin for black).

To make niello jewellery, a highly trained artisan carves out the metal so the it has a raised border and raised character, picture or pattern. The hollow area (ie the bit they have just carved out) is then filled with the niello compound, and baked in an oven until hard and set. The jewellery is given a final buff and polish and any final details to the characters are added by engraving techniques. Though basic in theory, this technique can produce some truly spectacular results. Actual recipes for the niello used in Siam Silver were a guarded secret of the artisans, which may explain the difference in quality and lustre of the jewellery.

 

What is the story behind Siam Silver jewellery?

The main characters you will see in Siam Silver jewellery are Mekkala, The Goddess of Lightening, and Ramasoon, the Thunder God. I read on a Thailand holiday forum a few years ago, that they are from a mythological tale told to many Thailand children about the origins of thunder and lightening (and not from the Ramayana, as is sometimes suggested):

Ramasoon fell in love with the beautiful Mekkala, but she didn’t love him back. In a jealous rage, he threw his axe at her so he could injure and capture her, but Mekkala was able to defend herself with her famous magical crystal ball. As the axe struck this ball, it created a massive flash of light. This was the first ever lightening. Defeated, Ramasoon created darkness and rain so he could retreat undercover. He still waits for Mekkala to this day. When he sees her, Ramasoon once again throws his axe to injure and capture her, though is always thwarted by the crystal ball that defends Mekkala and flashes brightly as the axe hits it.

This story is so well known in this region of the world that in 2002 and 2008 two major tropical storms were named after Ramasoon.

 

guide to history vintage Siam silver niello jewellery

A red enamel Siam Silver brooch, showing Ramasoon on the left (with axe), and Mekkala on the right (with lightening coming from her hand).

Many other images depicted are based on characters from Ramayana legend (aka the Ramakien, which is the Thai version of this massive and complex epic). It is ancient Indian/ Hindu in origin, and tells the story of Rama, who is a reincarnation on earth, of the Hindu God Vishnu. Though Thailand is predominantly Buddhist, the Ramayana is one of the most important works of literature in the country, telling moral tales about conflicts of duty, the concept of dharma and obligations in life.

 

Characters in Siam Silver Jewellery. Characters marked

1. Mekkala(h), the Goddess of Lightening – shown with lightning bolts coming from her hand. A well known figure in Thai culture. This is by far the most common character depicted in Siam jewellery, and is the theme you normally see in Siam jewellery.

2. Ramasoon, the God of Thunder
– shown with an axe in his hand. Often shown with Mekkala. Common.

3. Nang Fa, the Fairy of Happiness – looks like she’s dropping stardust from her hand to the floor. Uncommon

4. Matcha, the Mermaid Queen – has a fish/mermaid tail instead of legs. Sometimes shown with Hanuman, she appears with him in the Ramakien. Common.

5. Hanuman, King of Monkeys – a clothed revered monkey-diety holding a sword. Sometimes shown with Matcha. This is due to a Ramakien tale of Hanuman being sent by Prince Rama to build a bridge over Queen Matcha’s Sea Kingdom, but the Monkey King falls in love with her instead. Common.

6. Thepanom, a Thailand Guardian Angel deity – sits devoutly with hands in prayer position, with a flame like motif behind the head. Common.

7. Erawan (aka Airavata), Three Headed Elephant: a multi-headed elephant king, well known in Hinduism. Erawan carries Indra (the Hindu God of rain and thunderstorms) on its back. Mentioned in the Ramayana. Uncommon.

8. Phra Samut Chedi (a.k.a Phra Chedi Klang Nam), The Floating Pagoda, a world famous temple pagoda building in Thailand (located in the Phra Samut Chedi District) which floats on water. Common.

9. Suphanahongse, The Royal Barges; a collection of ornate boats now housed in the Royal Barge National Museum on Bangkok Noi Canal. Common.

10. Lord Rama, (Prince/ Lord) – revered Hindu God who is central to the Ramayana epic; depicted with a bow and arrow. Rare.

11. Dancing Angel – depicted with a long curved garland (looks like rope) held behind the back. Were possibly warriors who were magically turned into angels (Ramayana). Common.

12. Garuda (Garunda) – a winged mythical creature – a cross between human and eagle and is found in both Hindu and Buddhism. It forms part of the national symbol of Thailand and is an emblem of the King of Thailand. Uncommon.

13. Sword dancer – figure holding up two swords. Using a sword in both hands is a method commonly used some Thai martial arts and in many traditional dances. Uncommon.

14. Kinnara (Kinnaris) – a celestial half-woman, half- swan like bird creature. Her upper body is that of a woman, her lower body and legs are that of a bird. Rare.

 

Siam Silver can occasionally show subjects such as animals (mainly elephants), signs of the zodiac, dancers (male and female), and symbols (often special commissions).

White enamel Siam silver brooch shows Hanuman (the Monkey King) and Matcha (Queen of the Mermaids).

White enamel Siam silver brooch shows Hanuman and Matcha.

info about vintage Siam silver niello jewellery

Vintage black niello Siam shield brooch which depicts a Thailand Sword Dancer.

info about vintage Siam silver niello jewellery

Vintage black niello brooch depicting the God Indra riding Erawen, the elephant king.

guide about vintage Siam silver niello jewelry

Siam Silver niello cufflink which depict the Dancing Angels.

info about vintage Siam silver niello jewellery

Siam nielloware brooch shows Garunda (a.k.a Garuda), with the Hindu God Vishnu riding it. Garuda is the emblem of Thailand Royalty.

guide about vintage Siam silver niello jewelry

Chedi Klang Nam/ Phra Samut Chedi, The Floating Pagoda

 

 

guide about vintage Siam silver niello jewellery

Vintage Siam Silver tie pin which shows Thepanom

guide about vintage Siam silver niello jewelry

Some Siam silver depicts signs of the zodiac, such as this tie pin which shows the crab of Cancer.

 

vintage siam silver kinnera niello brooch (3)

The rare Kinnara, a mythical half woman half swan creature, who represents the feminine aspects of love, strength and courage.

 

Types of Siam Silver jewellery – beginning a collection.

One of the wonderful things about Siam Silver is the sheer variety of jewellery. No two pieces are exactly the same – each is unique. Even the most common types that depict Mekkala show her in an almost infinite variety of settings and surrounding filigree metal work.

When collecting you will mostly see brooches, pendants, earrings, cufflinks, tie-pins, and bracelets. More rare are bangles, rings and necklaces. Black nielloware is usually seen, though coloured enamels are sought after by collectors too.

 

vintage siam silver orange red brooch enamel (2)

A beautiful orange – red colour enamel brooch showing Mekkala, Goddess of Lightening.

 

guide about vintage Siam silver niello jewelry

Vintage blue enamel Siam silver brooch

guide about vintage Siam silver niello jewelry

Unusual multi-coloured Siam silver panel bracelet

guide about vintage Siam silver niello jewelry

Rare yellow vintage Siam silver panel bracelet

 

 

Price depends on many things, including the jewellery size, shape, colour, characters depicted, or jewellery type – each collector is as different as the jewellery itself! Mekkala, Goddess of Lightening niello brooches are a great starting point for budding collectors as they can still be purchased for a reasonable price, and there are a huge variety of styles to discover. Expect to pay slightly more for the pendants, earrings and bracelets. Fancy necklaces, bangles and Siam Silver accessories such as cigarette cases usually fetch the highest prices.

 

The Future of Siam Silver Jewellery

The sheer beauty and variety of designs are what makes Siam Silver jewellery popular to wear and collect.. However, many people love it because of its cultural, religious and spiritual significance too. Whatever your reason for buying Siam Silver, one thing is for sure – you’ll treasure this amazing story-telling jewellery for years to come.

No Siam nielloware article is complete without a reference to vintage niello researcher and Siam silver expert Charles Dittell and his website www.siamman.com, with thanks for sharing with the world his ground-breaking research into the genre. Please do check his wonderful website out!

UPDATE MARCH 2014: I recently purchased Charles Dittell’s eBook about Siam Silver called Survey of Siam Sterling Nielloware (which is available for download via his shop or Amazon) – and can thoroughly 100% recommend it! The eBook is packed with so much info I’d never come across before – it’s a must read for Siam lovers and collectors.

 

Further reading/ references:

Info about Kinnara:

http://www.harekrsna.com/philosophy/associates/demons/classes/singers.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kinnara

Info about the Royal Barge:

http://www.thaiwave.com/benjarong/variety/royalbarges.htm

Info about the Floating Pagoda:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phra_Samut_Chedi_District

http://www.paknam.com/tourist-attractions/phra-samut-chedi.html

Info about Garuda:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garuda

Lots of info on nielloware in Thailand:

http://www.rubenvasquez.com/niello/history.htm

Info about the Ramayana:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramayana

Favourite vintage Siam Silver niello jewellery…

I’ve been a huge fan of vintage Siam Silver niello jewellery made in Thailand for years. Here are some of the favourite pieces I’ve had …

vintage mens tie clip siam silver niello enamel nang fa jewelry

Vintage Siam Silver men’s tie clip, depicting Nang Fa, the fairy of happiness; she is one of the more unusual characters depicted in Siam jewellery.

siam silver niello rare figures bracelet jewellery

Vintage Siam Silver bracelet. I bought this because it the characters were very detailed, and the niello work seemed a bit different than normal. It wasn’t stamped or signed in any way. It also has two very rare characters on it – Lord Rama (with the bow and arrow) and Kinnara (a mythical half woman half swan creature).

siam silver st christopher charm pendant (4)

This tiny Siam Silver charm depicts a man holding a child.

siam silver erewan elephant 3d brooch nielloware jewellery

This magnificent Siam Silver brooch depicts Erewan, a mythological 3 headed elephant. I believe Erewan is the Thailand name for Airavata, the white elephant who carries the Hindu God Indra. This is the only piece of Siam silver I’ve ever¬† come across that has a raised 3-D effect to it.

vintage siam silver nang fa collar pendant necklace niello (1)

A vintage Siam Silver collar necklace depicting Nang Fa, the fairy of happiness.

vintage niello siam silver enamel black bangle jewellery

Vintage niello Siam Silver enamel hinged bangle, depicting Hanuman (the king of the monkeys) and Matcha (the mermaid queen), both from Hinduism and the Hindu religious epic the Ramayana.

vintage siam silver niello opening locket pendant necklace jewelry

Gorgeous vintage Siam silver pendant locket, which opens. The front depicts Mekkala (the goddess of lightening in some South Asian mythology), and her nemesis Ramasoon (the god of thunder) is on the back. Mekkala is the most common character found on Siam silver jewellery.

vintage siam silver niello tie clip crab taurus (2)

Many Siam pieces depict signs of the horoscope, like in this vintage Siam silver niello tie clip which shows the cancer crab.

Vintage Siam Silver niello earrings jewelry

Wonderful vintage Siam Silver niello screw back earrings

Vintage Siam Silver niello bell charm bracelet jewellery

Vintage Siam Silver niello charms bracelet. All the bells worked, and tinkled gently when moved!

Vintage Siam Silver niello tie clip pin jewelry (2)

Vintage Siam Silver tie pin depicting The Thailand Royal Barge; Suphanahongse

Vintage Siam Silver sterling niello brooch jewellery

Vintage Siam Silver niello brooch, possibly depicting the Hindu God Indra riding upon Erawan?

Vintage Siam Silver brooch, showing Garunda, qa winged mythical creature and the emblam of the Thai Royal family

Vintage Siam Silver brooch, which I believe shows the Hindu God Vishnu upon Garunda (aka Garuda), a winged mythical creature, and the emblem of the Thailand Royal family

Vintage Siam Silver niello tie clip pin, depicting Thepanom, a Thai guardian angel diety

Vintage Siam Silver niello tie clip pin, depicting Thepanom, a Thailand guardian angel.

Vintage Siam Silver niello brooch, depicting Hanuman & Matcha

Vintage Siam Silver niello brooch, depicting Hanuman and Matcha from the Hindu Ramayana epic

Cloisonne enamel jewellery – a future vintage collectable?

I love cloisonne jewellery dating from the 1980s to present day. The designs are adorable, the colour’s so vivid, and the workmanship is exquisite. It’s an area of jewellery which is obviously modern in ‘vintage jewellery’ terms, but I’m always on the look out for what areas might be collectable in the future, and I’ve a hunch this may possibly be one of them (note, my opinion only – not to be taken as advise!)

Cloisonne is a type of enamel work which involves soldering wire-work onto a metal base to create shapes (called cloisons), then filling them in with coloured glass enamel power and which are finally fired in a hot kiln, creating the enamel pictures we see. Though many countries lay claim to its ancient origins, it is China and Japan that are probably the most well known large scale creators of this work.

Dating any type of cloisonne jewellery is tricky, and if a piece is a possible antique then it’s best done by an expert who specializes in the technique. The cloisonne jewellery that I’m interested in dates from the 1980s onwards, and is bold and fun in it’s design. ¬†

Here are some tips for buying closionne jewellery:

  • Check the metal on the back of the jewellery for green patches – cloisonne jewellery is often made from a copper base meaning it can be prone to the dreaded verdigris, an ‘infection’ to the metal which is difficult to remove and can spread to other jewellery. Verdigris is a total pain to deal with, and it’s best avoided at all costs.
  • Check over your item for any missing, cracked or damaged parts of enamel work. This detracts from the value of cloisonne jewellery massively and again, is best avoided as any damage cannot be fixed, and will only get worse over time.
  • Thick gloopy/creamy, swirly opalescent or pearl-like enamel work is modern and wasn’t used on jewellery that was made before the 2000s (see 4th picture down of the modern blue bangle to see what I mean).

vintage cloisonne enamel brid earrings parrot jewelry

Cloisonne enamel parrot bird earrings. Cloisonne jewellery is noted for it’s use of rich jewel-like colours and adorably fun designs

Vintage cloisonne ring flower enamel jewelry

Cloisonne ring flower enamel jewelry

vintage 1980s cloisonne white enamel crescent pendant bib necklace jewellery

Cloisonne white enamel crescent pendant necklace. Dating cloisonne jewellery is difficult and can rarely be done by the enamel work itself; for this necklace I also studied the clasp and hinges to the necklace, as well as the metal chain used, which indicated an approximate date of circa late 1980s.

cloisonne hinged blue modern bangle enamel jewellery

Modern circa 2012 cloisonne hinged blue modern bangle. Note the pearl-like gloopy swirls of blue enamel – this a new technique and not seen on pre-200os enamel work. Also, the solid gold-tone metal interior is typical of modern post-2000s designs.

vintage 80s white cloisonne enamel fan brooch flower butterfly jewelry

This white cloisonne enamel fan brooch is unusual as it has a 3-D effect where the butterfly and red flower have been layered on top of the fan.

vintage 1980s owl brooch cloisonne enamel cute jewellery

Cloisonne owl brooch … sooo cute!

vintage 80s cloisonne enamel dolphin hoop earrings jewelry

Cloisonne enamel dolphin hoop earrings. The designs and subjects used in cloisonne jewellery are almost endless, which might make it very attractive to future collectors.

Vintage 1980s cloisonne enamel flower necklace earrings set parure black beige jewellery

Circa early 2000s cloisonne black and beige blush enamel flower necklace earrings set. The use of the black fabric rope ‘chain’ on the necklace was popular during the late 1990s and early 2000s

vintage 1980s black red cloisonne enamel butterfly clamper bangle jewellery

Striking black and red cloisonne enamel butterfly bangle, circa late 1990s/ early 2000s. This type of ‘clamper bangle’ has a spring hinge which opens and snaps back over the wrist. Recent cloisonne bangles don’t tend to have this mechanism, so in years to come it may help us to date them

Vintage 1980s cloisonne enamel owl brooch jewellery

Adorable beige and red cloisonne enamel owl brooch

vintage blue cloisonne enamel flower scarf clip jewellery

Cloisonne blue and pink enamel flower scarf clip

vintage cloisonne enamel clamper bangle jewellery repair

When buying pre-owned cloisonne jewelry, watch out for damage missing pieces of enamel which will detract from the value of jewellery (this goes for any type of enamel jewellery whether modern or old).