Beautiful vintage costume jewelry that was made in the old West Germany comes in a stunning variety of styles and designs. You can recognize this type of jewelry, as it is stamped “West Germany” on the back of the jewelry piece. Items were usually made from glass beads, plastic beads or glass stones, which were set into base metals. The following photos show some different types of signed ‘West Germany’ jewelry – I love how varied and beautiful it was ..
The back of a necklace clasp, which has been signed “W. Germany”. Sometimes jewelry pieces were signed Western Germany, or West Germany (pieces signed simply “Germany” were made prior to 1949, which I’ll talk about a little more, further down this article).
One of the most beautiful vintage costume jewelry brooches I’ve owned is this circa 1960s old West Germany brooch, complete with stunning center amber-glass opalite glass stone. Vintage jewelry collectors may notice that West Germany brooches such as this one, are similar to ones from Czechoslovakia made in the 1930s to 1950s – according to one vintage jewelry collector I came across many years ago, this was due to an influx of Czechoslovakian jewelry designers coming to work in West Germany at the time.
Vintage pastel blue Lucite plastic bead collar necklace signed West Germany, circa 1960s. West Germany jewelry was famous for it’s high quality finish and gorgeous statement designs.
This vintage signed West Germany necklace is made from Eloxal metal, a type of robust and tarnish resistant aluminium, and is very lightweight to hold.
Vintage costume jewelry necklace, signed ‘West Germany’ on the clasp, and created with brown round glass beads
Vintage West Germany signed costume jewelry necklace, created in Eloxal metal and with faux mother of pearl shell plastic panel detail
These vintage pink confetti Lucite flower earrings are stamped simply ‘Germany’,which can help us to date them to pre-1949; after this date Germany was split into two countries, East Germany and West Germany, until 1990. Although jewelry was made in East Germany it’s now rare to find, and is sometimes signed ‘German Democratic Republic’ or similar.
Vintage 3 row pink red plastic bead strand bib necklace, signed West Germany on the clasp.
Vintage gold tone filigree statement long tassel beaded necklace, detailed with faux coral (made from painted red wood). It’s always worth carefully looking over any vintage costume jewelry you come across to see if it has a West Germany stamp on it, usually on or near the clasp. Unlike some other types of vintage costume jewelry (such as Delft or old Czechoslovakian) there is no particular distinct style or tell-tale features to give it away as from West Germany, so finding a signature can be of great help.
Close up detail of the above faux coral necklace showing the beaded detail and intricate filigree metal work.
Vintage signed West Germany blue and opaque white glass bead clip on earrings (stamped ‘West Germany’ on the backs of the ear clips)
Beautiful signed West Germany costume jewelry necklace, detailed with faceted amber color glass stones set into lightweight Eloxal metal.
Another hallmark of West Germany jewelry is the use of glass cameos and intaglios (reverse carved cameos) in the designs, like on these vintage circa 1960s glass cameo & enamel deco revival earrings.
If you are interested in buying vintage jewelry made in West Germany, online auction sites and online vintage marketplaces are a great place to start; I’ve seen prices generally ranging from around £2 to £10 ($3 to $14) per item, though the odd piece of jewelry will sell for up to £50 (approx $70 USD) on occasion. I’ve also picked up some beautiful West Germany jewelry in thrift shops and flea markets for less than £5 (about $7 USD), so it’s definitely worth shopping around (all prices are my personal experience and are not to be taken as any type of valuation).
Whilst the quality and finish of West Germany costume jewelry is of a high standard, there are some things to watch out for before you make a purchase. Check necklaces for stringing quality, as the original old string may have become stretched/ worn and would now benefit from a more secure re-string. Look carefully at metal work – if you see any green patches or rust, this is a sign the metal is damaged, and in my experience this damage will only spread and get worse. Check all clasp mechanisms open and close properly by testing them a few times – I once bought a vintage necklace and the old clasp spring broke on my first wear! Finally, bare in mind that West Germany jewelry was sometimes made from Eloxal metal, which is an extremely lightweight type of aluminium metal; don’t worry if your jewelry feels too light or has no weight to it – if it’s signed West Germany the chances are it’s made from Eloxal.
Celtic inspired and Scottish glass agate costume jewellery is very distinctive , with the designs often based on earlier Victorian and pre-antiquity pieces. Made from glass stones (created to imitate the agates) which are set into non-precious mixed metal, they are a beautiful mix of intricate patterns and bold statement features.
Notable makers are Miracle and Heathergems (who ingeniously use compressed real heather found on the Scottish moors to create stones,) though collectors might also come across vintage producers no longer in business, such as Jacobite and Hollywood; look for ‘signatures’ and makers stamps on the back of the jewellery as often (but not always) jewellery might be signed.
Telling the difference between modern Celtic inspired and Scottish costume jewellery and older ‘real’ antique agate jewellery can be tricky at first. As a general rule, antiques tend to be more delicate and intricate in nature; look for fine etching, flush stone settings and top quality scroll patterns. T-bar pins and long pins are a sign of antique brooches too (see here for my guide to dating antique brooches for more info). Antique Celtic inspired and Scottish jewellery is made from real agates and gemstones.
ABOVE: a real circa 1870s Victorian antique Scottish agate sterling silver brooch. Notice the quality flush settings of the agate stones (each one from a part of the Scottish coastline), intricate scroll work around the sides, and long pin which sticks out from the side of the brooch.
More modern Scottish costume jewellery dates from circa 1950s to today, and is usually made from glass, enamel or other imitation ‘stones’. The pieces tend to be much chunkier, and often include thistles and Celtic knot work patterns (surprisingly, real Victorian antique Celtic and Scottish jewellery rarely shows thistles or Celtic knot patterns, instead using popular Victorian era scroll patterns of the time instead).
ABOVE: a more modern costume jewellery circa 1980s glass agate brooch. Notice the chunky stone settings, Celtic patterns and ‘mottled’ stone colours of the glass (which is trying to imitate agates.
Here are some of my favourite Celtic inspired and Scottish costume jewellery designs:
Beautiful simple Celtic cross brooch, with brown banded glass stone, made circa 1980s. A sign of more modern Celtic inspired and Scottish jewellery is the use of the cross in the design, along with Celtic patterns.Some costume Scottish or Celtic inspired brooches do have gemstones set into them (such as this quartz), though note the metal is still mixed/non-precious, as seen in this lovely modern brooch.Gorgeous circa 1970s Scottish inspired brooch. Whilst the patterns are intricate, the stones (made from glass) are glued in quite crudely, and not flush set.Unusual Celtic glass agate brooch, set into imitation gold colour metal.Chunky, bold and vivid colourful design – a hallmark of more modern Scottish agate glass inspired brooches.Stunning circa 1950s glass stone brooch.Lovely penannular style brooch, made from mixed metal and glass. Genuine penannular brooches are a type of cloak fastener rather than decoration brooch – though note the costume jewellery designs (such as this one) are decoration only, and don’t work!Magnificent Scottish glass agate costume jewellery brooch, set in bronze colour metal.Whilst brooches are the most popular type of Scottish and Celtic inspired costume jewellery, pendants, bracelets and rings are made too.Outstanding and rare design huge Celtic costume jewellery brooch, made with orange speckled glass stones and set into pewter tone metal.Lovely glass agate cross pendantUnusual black glass agate costume broochWhilst brooches are the most popular type of Scottish and Celtic costume jewellery, pendants, bracelets and rings are made too.Gorgeous little Scottish thistle costume jewellery earrings, with glass ‘amber’ flowers.Lovely Heathergems stone thistle brooch. You can learn more about the amazing way heather flowers are turned into Heathergems jewellery here.Stunning thistle design Scottish glass agate broochRare fan posy design Scottish and Celtic inspired brooch – note the good quality faux bloodstones, which have been made out of glassHuge Celtic glass agate cross pendant necklace
Very unusual circa 1960s modernist Cetic inspired brooch, with green marble stone. There is a signature to this piece but it’s an unknown maker.Detail of the above brooch – this is the signature to this piece but it’s an unknown maker.Vintage circa 1960s Scottish Celtic inspired pendant, made from glass stones, and signed ‘Hollywood’ on the back. Hollywood were a well known costume jewellery makers during the mid 20th Century.Stunning pre-antiquity-inspired modern Celtic brooch made with brown glass stones in bronze tone metal.Gorgeous Scottish style thistle brooch, detailed with blue and purple glass banded stones.Stunning Celtic pattern green glass stone costume jewelry brooch – top quality, and signed ‘Jacobite’ on the back.Whilst brooches are the most popular type of Scottish and Celtic costume jewellery, pendants, bracelets and rings are made too.
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